Smederevo

Smederevo, on the Danube, 45 kilometres East from Belgrade, is the first important stage on the way of fortresses. Dominating the Danube, its medieval fortress imposes a respect by its dimensions and by its history. But Smederevo is also the most important river port on the way to Romania in the sense of its strategic position downstream from Belgrade. Finally, Smederevo is an emblematic town of the economic restructuring led since 2001 because it contains an iron melting complex of Sartid bought by the American giant of US Steel, while the port installations had been sold to an Austrian company.

HISTORY

Smederevo has been known in the Serbian history as the capital of the kingdom of Serbia and its history has been intimately mixed to that of the fortress. In 1427 despot Djuradj Brankovic thrown out of Belgrade by Hungarians and threatened by Turks from the South decided to establish here the capital of Serbia. To defend the capital, the Serbian despot had erected 1429-1430 one of the largest fortresses in the Balkans. But by taking the fortress by Sultan Mehmed 1459, not only had the town lost of its importance, but this tragedy signified the end of the Serbian medieval State. The Austrians had conquered it three times in the XVIII century, but had been compelled to cede it to Turks. The Serbian rebels under Karadjordje Petrovic conquered it on November 8^th 1808, and Smederevo became the centre of the First Serbian Insurrection in 1867 Turks had definitively left the town. Smederevo took its full foot in the industrial period and developed its river commerce. But the II World War had marked the town by the explosion on June 5^th 1941 in the German ammunition depot having 3500 dead. In 1944 the American bombing had destroyed a part of the town.

THE TOURIST SITES

THE FORTRESS - It has been one of the largest and best preserved fortresses in the Balkans. This medieval city has been known by Serbs because, constructed by despot Djuradj Brankovic in 1430, it contained the institutions of the Serbian medieval State till the middle of XV century. In 1459 the Sultan Mehmed conquered it and the fortress belonged to the Ottomans during three centuries. As late as 1806 when the I Serbian Insurrection had been in course, the Turks had been thrown out. It became an arsenal at the end of XIX century and the terrible tragedy in 1941 had marked the memory of the town for ever. The Germans caused the explosion leading to 2500 dead.

The fortress of Smederevo may be reached from the railway station and, after passing the main gate, one got impressed by its monumentality. The construction design has been of a triangle having the sides of 400 and 500 meters. The East and the West sides have been protected by the Danube and the Jezava. But one should imagine the South trench doubled by an artificial trench from end to end. One may notice the barrage and two square towers in the South and in the East, and the cylindrical towers in the West. In the current of time the low barrages supporting the main trench disappeared and had been wiped off as well as the great gate on the side of the Danube.

In the trench of the fortified place a great plateau contained the garrison. You should direct yourself to the right and for70 Dinars you would reach the core royal parts. In this reduced North-East angle of the fortress one may notice the donjon, and climb with difficulty up the stairs on the guard had to pass. This place had been the residence of Djuradj Brankovic in XV century with reception hall with a secret door allowing the communication with the outside.

CHURCH SAINT GEORGE - On the central square, surrounded by pedestrian streets, very animated in summer time, there has been erected the church Saint George with its two belfries. On a brilliant baroque style visible by the utilisation of bronze for the roof and the yellow colour for the façade, St. George is another emblematic monument of the town. The inside has been offering the orthodox jewels of the orthodox art of XVII and XVIII centuries, the iconostasis of vivacious colours and of the classical themes, a lot of gilding and the flowery wall paintings. The numerous masses and concerts have been performed here, and it has not been surprising to hear the melodious Slav choruses when you unexpectedly enter.

THE CHURCH OF SAINT VIRGIN - In the cemetery of Smederevo being situated at the entrance to the town coming from Belgrade, a little church of an ancient monastery founded in the XV century, today disappeared, may still be seen. By its design with three connected apsides and made of the brick and the stone, this church has been attached to the School of Morava. On the inside a few wall paintings from XVII century representing the cycle of the Christ’s’ life and the David’s psalms.

AROUND SMEDEREVO

THE ROYAL RESIDENCE OF OBRENOVICS - few kilometres downstream on the Danube bank the niche “Zlatni Breg”, the summer residence of dynasty of Obrenovic. Constructed by Milos Obrenovic in the middle of XIX century the royal dwelling dominating the Danube where it had been situated. Of the neo-classical style, Zlatni Breg has been constituted of two square wings and one very academic passage. The gate of the prince and the dominating white colour are giving it a certain majesty. The residence has been surrounded by a vine yard of 30 hectares installed and maintained by Milan, the son of Milos Obrenovic. Around the castle the cycling pathway has been offering a nice view of the Danube.