Monuments

Monuments and places

THE KALEMEGDAN FORTRESS

At the confluence of the Sava and the Danube the Kalemegdan Fortress was constructed by the Serbian Despot Stefan Lazarevic in the XIV century and later on reconstructed by Austrians since 1717 on under the Vauban conceptions. From 1739 to 1830 Turks established here their most advanced point in Balkans and had the control of movements of Austrian troops.

A certain number of Ottoman monuments remained from that epoch. They are located in the upper part of the fortress. The fountain of Mehmed Pasa Sokolovic has been built in 1576 by that vizier well known by his Serbian origin. He had been taken as janissary when he was eight. The mausoleum, turb of Damad Ali Pasha should also be visited, a vizier killed in Petrovaradin in 1716 or the Turkish bath constructed in 1870. The Fortress is also interesting for its various medieval towers and gates, the most ancient being the square Tower of Despot used in the XIV century as the main entrance to the fortress. But to come to the Military Museum from Terazije you will pass a series of gates as the Istanbul Gate constructed in 1750 or the Karadjordje Gate built in 1806. The most interesting is the Tower of Nebojsa. Constructed in 1460 and being in use in the middle ages as a point between the ancient port at the Sava bank and the higher part of the town. In the XVIII century it had been transformed into Donjon. In 1789 Greek revolutionists were tortured and executed there.

In the downtown are several ruins since the medieval era,-the fragments of ramparts and of churches. The church of St. Paraskeva is leaning on a rampart and is honouring the Greek Saint. The little church Ruzica is more recent (1867), but it is well known to all Belgrade students who want to visit it before the examination. Just nearby there is the charnel house of the heroes from 1914-1915 when the town had been defended by its population.

“THE BELGRADE CONQUEROR”

On the border of the upper town, holding over the confluence of Sava and the Danube there is the symbol of the town of Belgrade. Above a high neoclassicism column in a proud and tranquil position is standing a young soldier carrying a message of peace. Made in1928 by Ivan Mestrovic this imposant sculpture symbolizes the efforts of the Serbian Army for liberation of the fatherland in 1918 together with the French Army in the famous Oriental Army.

“KONJ” THE MONUMENT OF MIHAILO OBRENOVIC

On the square of the Republic in front of the National Museum there is a sculpture in bronze dedicated to Prince Mihailo Obrenovic, the liberator of Serbia from Turks in 1867. This monument represents a proud figure of the Prince mounted in a position typical to XIX century. On the base the engraved names of the main Serbian towns could be read and the scenes from the Serbian history could be noticed. In our time the monument serves as the point of meetings propagators of syndicates or politics.

THE NATIONAL THEATRE, Trg Republike 2

Constructed to the initiative of Prince Mihailo and under the plans of Aleksandar Bugarski, its facade of the 1820s and its neoclassic sculptures represent a beautiful ensemble. Realized under the model of theatres of the Central Europe from the same era there is a renaissance decoration. The theatre opened its gates in 1869 and the Opera and the Ballet had their first presentations in 1919.

STUDENTSKI TRG

This square near Knez Mihailova is surrounded by the University buildings and the well known sculptures. The mansion of Kapetan Misa at the No 1 of the Square is today the residence of the Belgrade University Rector’s Office. It was first the special mansion of Misa Anastasijevic, the richest man in Serbia in 1830. Devoted to be the special manor, this building never was utilized as such and from 1863 became a public edifice successively the Lyceum, the Ministry of Education, the National Library. Its usage was large in XIX century. You will be surprised by this mixture of red and tan and by the confusion of various styles. The Gothic, renaissance and Byzantine architectures have been mixed up. One should not miss the sculpture in honour of the Serbian writer and pedagogue Dositej Obradovic (1742-1811) built in 1914 and still today one of the most beautiful sculptures in the town. You would notice also the more recent sculpture of the founder of Serbian Geography Jovan Cvijic (1865-1925) realized in 1994. The monument of the Montenegro poet Petar Petrovic Njegos (1813-1851) is situated between the Faculty of Philosophy and the Rector’s office.

THE LIBRARY SVETOZAR MARKOVIC, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 71

This nice University Library is like a Vienna edifice by its yellow and white colours. Constructed in 1924 thanks to the Carnegie Foundation, the Library is obedient to the academic style. Next to the National Library (the modern building on the Vracar) it is the most impressive University Library in Serbia and Montenegro.
But in this quarter there are also the sculptures in the face of great persons from the Serbian history. On a great cross roads named to him, there is the monument of Vuk Karadzic (1787-1864) impressive by its height and by the position of the literature wisdom. This sculpture that could be seen from a long distance was constructed in 1937 for the 150th anniversary of this Serbian linguist and historian, the father of the modern Serbian language. Over holding the King Alexander Boulevard towards the city centre one could see the monument of Nikola Tesla (1856-1943) well known as the inventor in the field of electricity. One hundred meters farther there is the monument of Svetozar Markovic, the founder of socialism in Serbia.

THE KARADJORDJE MONUMENT, in front of St Sava Cathedral

Well visible from before the square, posted on a little earthen height, there is the sculpture of the leader of the I Serbian Insurrection of 1804, Karadjordje or George the Black, a swine breeder and merchant. Getting rich by his activity, he bought at the end of the XVIII century the weapons from Austrians of the other bank of the Sava and organized the Serbian insurrection against the Ottoman slavery. The legend says that Karadjordje gathered on this hill of Vracar a militia of 3,000 men within the spontaneous actions of Belgraders against Turks. This was an example for other towns of Sumadija who followed the step of Belgraders during all year of 1804.

THE MONUMENT OF LAMARTINE

Going down Nebojsina street toward the periphery quarters you will find this sculpture in honour of great poet and politician Lamartine (1790-1869). He stayed many times in Belgrade in the middle of XIX century and in the Home of Deputies defended the Balkan Christians tortured by the Ottomans. Several meters from there it is interesting to find the monument of International Brigades in which many Serbian communists have taken part between 1936 and 1939, but also that of the victims of the air raids on April the 6th 1941.

THE FRANCHET D’ESPEREY MONUMENT

Situated toward the highway at the intersection of JNA Boulevard and Franchet d’Esperey, this sculpture was built in 1937. Franchet d’Esperey (1856-1942) in September and October 1918 commanded the Orient Army which started from Salonika, Greece, liberated Macedonia, Serbia and Bosnia in a two month time. In 1921 Franchet d’Esperey had been advanced to the rank of the honourable of Serbian Vojvoda corresponding the title of Marshal in the French Army.

Religious monuments

SABORNA CRKVA, Kneza Sime Markovica 3

This Orthodox cathedral, wedged between the ancient centre and Kalemegdan, represents the main religious edifice of the capital. Constructed between 1845 and 1847 in the place where there was a more ancient church, it is a mixture of the Byzantine style and the Austrian architecture. The external aspect is approaching the catholic churches, while the interior has been entirely decorated by the icons and candelabras. At the command of Prince Milos Obrenovic, the cathedral plays a role of the mausoleum of great persons from Serbian history. In fact at the foot of the portal of the church there are the tombs of two great Serbian writers from XIX century, Dositej Obradovic and Vuk Karadzic. In a crypt situated in on the right hand at the entrance have been buried Prince Milos and two of his sons, Milan and Mihailo. In another crypt on the left hand at the entrance have been buried two metropolitans and one patriarch. Finally, there are three coffins guarding the saint relics of three Serbian princes from middle ages of whom Tsar Lazar fallen in the battle against Turks in the plane of Kosovo 1389.

SVETI MARKO, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 17

This beautiful Orthodox church has been located near National Parliament makes one surprised by its red and tan colours as the materials used go from the brick, go to the wood and pass to bronze. It has been constructed in 1930s, but taking the architecture of the monastery of Gracanica, the church Sveti Marko is of the medieval Serbian Orthodox style. With the design of the form of a Greek cross and twelve domes. This church is dear to the hearts of Belgraders because it guards the relics of Tsar Dusan (1308-1355) which have been transferred from the Monastery of the Archangels in Prizren.
All day long Belgraders use to lay there down the wax candles in honour of their dead or for another aim, to be given the campaigned spirit. In the evenings it has been illuminated from all sides, the aspect worth to be seen.

CHURCH OF THE ASCENSION, Admirala Geprata 19

Its severe view has been explained by the fact that it bas been contracted for the Army a garrison of which there was nearby. Its style is a mixture of romanticism and the medieval Serbian tradition. Thus it approaches the architecture of Ravanica in Sumadija. Its interest is in a rich collection of artistic works in the interior, and in the bells carefully decorated. The bell of the church of Ascension was the first to ring in 1830 when Serbia had got the autonomy from Turks.

THE MOSQUE OF BAYRAKLI, Gospodar Jevremova 11

In a very ancient quarter of Dorcol near the Belgrade Port there is the last mosque of Belgrade. Constructed in 1690 by Sultan Suleiman II, it has been renewed many times since the last summer, but it kept many of its original elements, as the entrance courtyard. Its present name has been given to it by a document at the end of the XVIII century in the honour of the bayrak (Turkish the flag) which had been raised on this mosque as a sign of the prayers in all mosques of the town at the same time.

THE TOMB OF SHEIK MUSTAFA, the crossing of the streets Brace Jugovica and Visnjiceva

Below the park of Studentski Trg there is this Muslim mausoleum in the form of a hexagon over headed by a typically oriental roof. At the time of sheik’s death it was a tekie where the dervishes exercised their rituals and has been transformed into a tomb. The remnants of sheik rest in cinders.

SYNAGOGUE, Marsala Birjuzova 19

One of the most ancient synagogues of the town was in Jevrejska street in the quarter of Dorcol, then as a place of Jewish cult has been used the National Theatre from 1869 to 1924. Later on, the Jewish community has on its disposal the building on the ground given to them by the municipality.

THE SAINT SAVA CATHEDRAL

The Saint Sava cathedral that dominates the town by its splendid dome is today the greatest Orthodox church in the world. Decorated by four belfries 44 meters high, inclined by a dome 70 meters above the ground and taking a surface area of 91 times 81 meters, the church St. Sava impresses by its monumentality and an entirely Byzantine elegance. Its simple plan of an assembled Greek cross and its 18 domes each one with a golden cross in three dimensions give it a majesty similar to no one other. Situated on the hill of Vracar the St. Sava church could be perceived as soon as one comes to Belgrade from any side, and as the town has been surrounded by the planes, it is visible from a distance of 80 kilometres all around. Why the efforts and self-sacrifice for construction this monument unique in the world?
It is necessary to go far back into the Serbian history to understand the importance of this edifice for a whole people, global and spiritual at the same time. On April 27th 1594 the vizier Sinan Pasha ordered the transference the relics of the monk Sava which rested in the monastery Mileseva in western Serbia and to burn them to show definitively the opposition of Turks to the independence of Serbs. King Alexander was killed in Marseille before he could be present the opening of works in 1935. Thereafter the works have been interrupted by the German bombing in 1941, and Tito refused to continue the works begun by the king. It was necessary to wait for the dictator’s death to continue the works from 1985 thereafter. The Serbian Orthodox Church has issued an international subscription, et the especially people from the emigration were those who responded that appeal. Twenty years later the edifice was entirely finished. In February 2004, on occasion of 200 years since the creation of the modern Serbian state, the St. Sava church has been inaugurated with great pomp by the Patriarch Alexis, and a landscape park makes now the visit to this monument agreeable.

The particular mansions and of the princes

THE RESIDENCE OF PRINCESS LJUBICA, Kneza Sime Markovica 8

At two paces from Knez Mihailova, one of the most interesting historical places of the town ensemble to any other. This beautiful residence of the Belgrade style dated in 1831 has been constructed to receive Princess Ljubica and two children of hers, Milan and Mihailo, all three of them under the protection of prince Milos Obrenovic. This is one of particular better preserved mansions, and its mixture of the style characteristic for the beginnings of the Serbian state. In fact, the rounded off roof and the windows surrounded by alcoves are typically ottoman, but the decoration of the classic style has been hit by the European guns of that epoch. In the XX century this residence had been utilised for lyceum and the palace of justice, but from now on it is the museum and the gallery at the same time. You will face the bourgeois furniture of the type of Central Europe and the reception salons on the ground floor. But on the first floor there would not missed the rooms for the princess and the children arranged a la turque with the divans and the oriental embroidery.

In the same quarter there are two other interesting houses by their facades. In the number6 of Kralj Petar street there is the tavern at the “?” (Question Mark), one of the most ancient in the town. Wedged between two buildings from 1950, this establishment built by two Greek architects in a typically Balkan style with a first floor inclined to the street and a roof of bricks a la turque. The name of this tavern has been changed many times because the Church refused to new owners to use the old name “At the Cathedral”. Thereafter the question point remained. At the number 22 of Kosancicev venac street there is another interesting facade in a totally different style the house of Mika Alas. Built at the beginning of XX century in the light blue tones this peculiar house was obedient to the Serbian-Byzantine architecture with the secessionist elements. It was Mika Alas, the member of the Academy of Sciences who built it.

THE HOUSE OF KRSMANOVIC, Terazije 24

Constructed in 1885 for the famous Belgrade negotiator Aleksa Krsmanovic, this palace represents an example of most representatives of the academic style in Serbia of the end of XIX century. Here was signed the creation of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. Thereafter the Regent, later the King Alexander Karadjordjevic used to stay here. Its impressive facade is of pure lines decorated by yellow and white colours typical to the Central Europe.
In the continuance of Terazije there are other examples of the style of the Studio of Milan Jovanovic, the photographer of the royal family being at No 40 Terazije. His style of secession and classicism of the lines should be noticed. At the corner of the Njegoseva street there is another house of the secession style, Society for the Vracar Embellishment. Notice its original windows and the decoration Art deco on the roof.

THE RESIDENCE OF PRINCE MILOS, the road of Rakovica, the Park of Topcider

On the summit of the ancient royal park Prince Milos had this superb residence built where he resided intermittently during his first reign, then permanently during his reign until his death in 1860. Its architecture combines the Balkan style with windows of wood, roof of bricks, and the European style with a geometric plan and great views. The residence is situated in the middle of a very agreeable park where Belgraders like to take walks seeking a shield from heat and from the wind. Visits guided by the Tourist Office from April to October on week-ends.
In the park of Topcider you will succeed to discover the environment of princes of XIX century. At the beginning there is the private church of Prince Milos Obrenovic dedicated to Sts. Peter and Paul. It has been constructed 1832 in the place where 28 years ago he avoided the execution ordered by his rival Karadjordje. Its simple design in the form of a Greek cross with two belfries of the style baroque the utilisation of the stone with man warm shades make it a nice edifice to the eye. The 13 hectares of the park are rich with majestic trees and in rare flowers, especially thanks to the good job done by the French gardener employed by Prince Milos in the XIX century. Don’t come back without seeing the railway station of Topcider. In the very Central European style, it was before an important railway station in the Belgrade network, but today it remains a place agreeable to visit.

THE KARADJORDJEVIC ROYAL PALACE, The quarter of Dedinje

In the outstanding quarter of Dedinje, several hundreds meters from the centre of the town, the palace of the dynasty of Karadjordjevic recently opened is composed of two majestic edifices, the Royal Palace and the White Palace (Beli dvor). The Royal Palace has been built in the second half of 1920s by King of Yugoslavia Alexander I and served as the residence of Karadjordjevics till 1941. Constructed in the Serbian-Byzantine style the Royal Palace is now the residence of Alexander II, the inheritor. He who had the occasion to visit, the interior made of marble, the Library, the salons and richly decorated reception hall. There is an impressive view to the hills of Topcider, Kosutnjak and Avala. The White Palace – Beli Dvor is less impressive, but it is closer to our culture. Built in 1937, its entrance contains the picture by French masters of XVII century – Poussain, Milet, among others and there are the rooms of porcelain from Limoges. The little and the grand salons built in the style of Louis XV decorated by the candelabras from Venice, by picture of Bruegel and Canaletto don’t miss this visit to Beli Dvor for any pretext.