Impressions of Serbia

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"Tango & Kolo" - An Argentinean in Belgrade

Tango & Kolo

Gustavo Navarro

The very first day I arrived in Serbia I began to wonder if the fact that I am Argentinean would prove to be an advantage or a disadvantage here. Now, after more than three years in this colourful Serbian environment, I have no doubt that it has proved an advantage for me; nor do I doubt that it would be an advantage for any foreigner, regardless of where they come from, to live in Serbia.

The Central Serbian town of Paracin first welcomed me to the country, and it was there that I first lived. Paracin is a town with hundreds of possibilities, and it is a very special town to me. It is a town blessed with that original brand of Serbian hospitality, and a town that boasts a tremendous spirit for trading.

During my stay in Paracin, I took the time to visit all of the places in the vicinity. One of the best for me has to be Cuprija - despite the fact that people in Belgrade cannot believe that anyone, especially a foreigner, could find anything remotely interesting in such a small town... Come on, people, have you never experienced those moments to be savoured there, in the midst of authentically beautiful nature on the banks of the Velika Morava River? The boat restaurant 'La Luna' is one of my favourite venues; a place where I enjoyed many a long summer dinner together with my family.

I've also found the people of Serbia particularly welcoming; I had no problem at all making friends all over Jagodina, Cuprija, Nis and elsewhere. When time has permitted, I've even been able to be a part of the positive and unique atmosphere of a variety of celebrations - from slava (saint day) to birthdays, weddings, etc. It was at such events that I began to realise just how tango and kolo are complimentary and can actually combine.

When my company started expanding further, growing from a local player to a national competitor, I moved to Belgrade: a city whose charm eludes depiction. That charm is not in Belgrade's architecture: Prague is more stunning, Budapest more Panonian, Istanbul more oriental, and Athens more ancient. Some travel writers plunge into platitudes, describing Belgrade as being on the border between counterpoised worlds, Eastern and Western, Northern and Southern, Orthodox and Catholic, Christian and Muslim, Balkan and Central European... but they miss the point of the city's focus on good life, rather than stones, bricks, or self-definition.

Before I came to Serbia, friends of mine who'd already experienced Belgrade told me that the Serbian capital is not about architecture or imagined cultural contexts, but about some good people and about very good living.

Belgrade's cuisine may be divine, but its skyline is decidedly underwhelming. Nevertheless, the city does have a calming architectural character and displays a very positive passion for cultural contexts. Over time I have come to realise that Belgrade has been, and remains, the main cultural metropolis of the region.

As for the cuisine? Do you know any foreigner that has complained about Serbian food? Nooooo! I haven't found a weakness in any of the restaurants I've visited. And as an Argentinean I can only compliment the quality of the delicious steaks!

Urban life? Dorcol and Knez Mihajlova Street on a spring day. The sensation of the bountiful air, felt whilst strolling down the pedestrian walkway with my family. Though, sadly, I can count those moments on my fingers (due to my need to travel regularly with work), they remain my favourite symbols and reminders of the better things in life; tools which enhance more and more my willingness (and personal prayer, to be honest) to stay here, at least for one more year.

And, as one reflects at the end of a day on the nuances of Argentinean wine and kolo or Serbian wine and tango, one ponders which combination to choose. But for me, after three years in Serbia, it really doesn't matter which I choose...As long as the extra bonus is an accompaniment of some good Serbian food! Gustavo Navarro is Country Manager of Holcim (Srbija) a.d.

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Before I came to Serbia, friends of mine who'd already experienced Belgrade told me that the Serbian capital is not about architecture or imagined cultural contexts, but about some good people and about very good living.

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